29-06-2018

And that’s Albariño, Pazo Señorans Colección 2014

Albariño, and to a greater extent, DO Rías Baixas has been one of the many success stories in Spanish wine. I’d warrant that if hard pressed to name a Spanish white grape, the one that most people would think of (if any) would be Albariño–although it needs to be noted it’s in Portugal as well under the similar name, Alvarinho.

It’s become so established that it’s a pretty standard white wine to pop up on blind tasting exams as it can have a profile similar to some northern French grapes with its peachy notes but it’s that all-telling bitterness that always gives it away. That and in the best examples, there are saline notes given that Rías Baixas can have a good deal of Atlantic influence. Yeah yeah, I know, grapes don’t pick up environmental factors in their flavors notes but yet… they do.

When looking for a “quintessential” example, Pazo Señorans is often tossed out as a possibility given they make a pretty classic, straight up version of the wine. That said, other producers have been experimenting with different takes on Albariño, entering into something of a “bored” period with the wines. It’s not uncommon to find oaked examples or even others that have passed through malolactic conversion. If presented with one of these blind, you’d be right screwed as both these aging regimens made it difficult to ascertain the Albariño-ness that’s so typical of the grape.

This example I received of the “Colección” is perfect in terms of what to expect from the grape. Fresh, crisp, great acidity, lively and not the least bit boring. My mother was visiting when I was tasting it and I think I make a new fan out of the grape as it’s just so accessible in terms of profile but still offers up enough to keep interest. That said, this is a 2014 wine and I feel like it has peaked so if you come across it, I’d recommend tossing it in the fridge/ice bucket and opening it up for some fine living this summer of 2018.

Colección 2014
White peach, candied apricot, light raspberry hints, minor cut grass, wet straw. Fresh, crisp lemon, tart skin, high acidity, dried apricot in the finish, good persistence.
100% Albariño 13% 19€
**- 91