In The Glass: Vins de Taller – Geum 2012
It’s been tricky for the organic winery of Vins de Taller as while they’re an Empordà winery they’re not a DO Empordà winery. This is due mostly to sitting just outside the geographical borders of the denomination but also because they grow some grapes that aren’t permitted within the denomination’s list.
Being outside the borders has allowed them a great deal of freedom, but at the same time, it means that they’ve had to define and explain their wines a good deal more. Last year though, they were outsiders no more as they joined the overarching DO Catalunya. While I have problems with this kitchen sink of a DO as it covers too many regions and styles and should be a “Vi de la Terra” certification (similar to “Vin de France”) instead, I feel like it’s worked to focus Vins de Taller in some regards. I say this because this wine is 100% Merlot and while I’m not of the, “I’m not drinking any fucking Merlot” camp, I still rarely find that it has a place in Catalonia outside of blends. But here, they’ve made it work quite well.
Light red fruits in the nose along with wild spices. Touches of the aging regimen present but they don’t overwhelm the rather delicate balance found in the body of the wine. Good heft and depth in general with a lingering finish and a great flexibility for food pairings, including spicy dishes.
100% Merlot 14% 9€