Oh, the Macabeu. Tomàs Cusiné – Finca Racons 2016
Given the new look of DO Costers del Segre, it seems a fitting moment to have a taste of a new release from the region. In this case we’re talking about Finca Racons from Tomàs Cusiné.
While a wine that’s certified as 100% organic is noteworthy, what’s even more special is the fact that this is partly from what are now, 100 year-old vines… of Macabeu. There aren’t usually too many old white grape vineyards around as they’re often torn out and replanted in the name of productivity but every so often you come across one such as this or Turó d’en Mota, yum-o-la. In this wine, there are actually two parcels. The one of 0.44ha is the 100 year-old one and the other of 1.36ha was planted in 1955. Whatever angle, through whatever state of sobriety you choose to look at this, these are most definitely “old vines” in anyone’s definition.
The vineyard is at 700m and they see an average yield of 3,000 kg/ha which is of little surprise given the age, elevation, poor limestone soils, and the organic (soon to be biodynamic) farming. Ah, yes, that’s one of those things you might not have known in that organic viticulture is both more work and you usually see less yield.
A most curious wine to give a try if you happen to come across what meager bottles are made of it and want to know a different side to Macabeu than what you might have previously tasted from Penedès, if you’ve tasted varietal Macabeu at all.
Finca Racons 2016
Light lemon color, watery at the edge. Ripe peach, dried apricot, lemon skin, light pine, bacon fat (yeah, really.) Big, thumping, medium plus acidity, yet it gives way to a medium finish. Large, fleshy fruits, medium minus alcohol, orchard fruits dominate but the fleshy bacon bits return along with a brace of mineral notes. Haven’t really tasted anything else quite like it.
100% Macabeu 13.5% 23€