Roseatis & the shark looming on Rosé’s horizon
A few days ago, I received the press announcement for a new store dedicated solely to Rosé wine called, Roseatis. A Catalonia-based website that’s just in Spanish, I find the name horrible given that it immediately makes me think of the skin condition, rosacea or possible some form of tropical disease for which there is no cure, just a long, drawn-out death. But beyond the name, it’s seemingly weird to me to have an online shop dedicated to one single type of wine that’s not even regionally defined.
Maybe I’m wrong and there are websites like IPAtis.com or Bubblytis.com, but in doing a half-assed search just now, I didn’t immediately stumble across any. In general, if you look for specific types of wines such as sparkling wines or Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines, they’re always part of a larger site that’s for this thing called, “wine”.
It’s one of the reasons that I wonder if Rosé is indeed having a flavor of the moment, Icarus-style ascent much like other wines have had in the past. I can think of sweet Rieslings (Blue Nun), Muscadet , and Sweet (bluh…) Sherry that all had their flaming moment to then die out. I mean, it’s not a little ironic that you can get both a 40oz bottle (1.2l) of Rosé as well as Muscadet. I have to admit that Muscadet is damned tempting as I do indeed love the wine despite its past trendiness.
If you haven’t read it, take a look at this article my fellow winner in the Fortnum & Mason Awards, Henry Jeffreys, who has perfectly coined the term, yacht rosé. That’s a solid read which delves into the fact that rosé has been mainstreamed to the point where it has indeed become a trend, but seemingly one that could putter out because it’s become such a “thing”. Brosé for example sounds even worse than Roseatis.
I must at this point apologize to my friend, Liz Gabay MW who is currently working on a new book, solely about Rosé and has been a strong proponent of it and I don’t want to infer that the wine will simply fall off the earth after this next summer, because it won’t. But it makes me wonder if there is some aspect to looking down the road to say that yes, Rosé is indeed popular now and it keeps growing in popularity and it could indeed be simply a bubble.
This growth of Rosé isn’t news to the French however, where in the summer, even the homeless in the parks of Paris are only drinking Rosé. But for those of use outside the Gallic lands will this rise eventually crash down to then see the sector again normalize? After all, both Rieslings and Sherries have come back into appreciation, at least by those in the wine trade. And Muscadet remains a loved, versatile wine at a great price.
Thus I can’t help but feel some bumpy days might be ahead for the pinky bottles out there, but could there be the chance they might end up stronger in the future as unlike that fucking blue wine garbage in Spain which won’t go away, Rosé, at its core can indeed be a very nice wine that can be had any time of the year you’d like–whether on your yacht or not.