11-10-2015

The wines of Bodegas Hermanos Peciña

I recently received a set of samples from Bodegas Hermanos Peciña located in the Alta region of Rioja. When confronted with Rioja wines I generally know what to expect (although this is indeed changing) in that the reds will be approachable with red cherry notes and the whites will be much of the same and similar to those found in Penedès but with more of a limestone rather than salt touch to them.

This is both the great gift and problem with wines from Rioja in that they are the absolute go-to option when you want a glass of red Spanish wine at an easy-to-swallow price. This is of course their curse as well in that they can often not have tremendous depth of character or even a real sense of place given the more typical use of American oak barrels that obliterate most of the subtle aspects one can possibly find in the Tempranillo grape.

To a large degree, this is what you find with the Peciña wines. The entire line is reliable and very much Rioja in character. The younger wines fall under the umbrella of “reliable” Rioja wines. The aged wines show a bit more character and the red Chobeo was my favorite out of the group although I didn’t understand initially that these were their top wines as the labels and bottles gave me the impression that they were younger or some off-market brand. Admittedly I have yet to understand Spanish marketing in its entirety…

Cosecha Blanco 2014
Honeyed straw in color. Green apple, baked pear, bit of mint. Apple notes more prevalent in the body as well as lees contact and what seems like neutral oak aging. Bigger body with an astringent finish and minor amounts of complexity.

100% Macabeu 12.5% 8€
*

Chobeo de Peciña 2014
Very pale straw with a tinge of green and medium viscosity. Green apple, white blossoms, and a hit of candy. There’s also sweetness in the mouth although it’s nearly dry and a bit of tartness develops with air. Really lacking in depth but immediately approachable to any normal wine drinker.

100% Macabeu 12.5% 11€
*

Crianza 2011
Garnet in color with medium viscosity. Typical red fruits, cherry, cedar, slight coconut in place of vanilla, and alcohol at a plus and slightly unbalanced. Body is medium, red fruit nose more prevalent, joined by raspberry, strawberry jam. Finish medium. *

95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, 2% Grenache 13.6% 11€
*

Reserva 2009
Immediate red fruits notes that are a bit uneven and lead in to light cedar, minor herbs. Overall not one of the most interesting bottles that they have on offer but correct in vinification.

95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, 2% Grenache 13.6% 13€
*

Vendimia Seleccionada 2006
Viscosity is medium plus with ruby color and a good degree of rim variation. Big hit of tobacco leaves, cedar, dark fruits and a bit of chalky minerality. Big in the mouth with pronounced oak notes that aren’t terribly well integrated. Strong tannins, very full body. Reasonably intricate albeit lacking in subtlety but would appeal greatly to those who enjoy New World styles.

95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, 2% Grenache 13.6% 22€
**

Chobeo de Peciña 2009
Ruby in color with good rim variation. Notes of fig, red fruits, cedar, and alcohol at medium but seems medium plus in the nose. Even on the palate, red fruits nose prevalent, dry, tannins plus, oak definitely present with a long finish initially that flattens a bit with decanting.

100% Tempranillo 13.5% 23€
**