09-07-2018

When “natural” comes a knockin’. Mascorrubí Heretat 1297 – Annat 2017

Sometime back I was sent a couple of wines from a local region that actually had “natural” writ large upon the label. This was a new one to me as anyone producing wines of this category usually don’t then stick it on the label as man, you should just like, know that it’s “natural” and thus, cool–maybe too cool for you to even drink it. But no, there it was, like John Oliver being “cool” and the wines were so unappealing that they fell below my threshold to write them up here, sadly. I say that as I get no pleasure in bagging on people’s wines but if they taste like oxidized vinegar infused with beer yeast, I’m going to be hard pressed to recommend them.

That’s why when I was sent this new wine from Mascorrubí Heretat 1297 which was pitched in a similar fashion, I had my doubts. There were of course several pluses in its favor: being made from Sumoll (a local variety on the up), being grown at 500m (thus high altitude), and being based in the rather unknown El Pla de Manlleu (and thus the wild and woolly DO Catalunya) which all worked to pique my curiosity.

It turns out that the curiosity was justified as this wine is quite good. I don’t really care if they want to bill it as “natural” as I’ll happily drink it due to the wine being tasty and not smacking of unpleasant flaws. And that’s the real trick with natural wine in that the best of it shouldn’t really even have you know but of course how can it ever be cool? Answer, it shouldn’t, it should just taste good.

Annat 2017
Lovely apricot blush. Underlying fresh, wild strawberry note, chopped fennel, herbs, light bit of mint and blueberry. Medium plus acidity, fresh, mouthwatering, good red fruit push on the palate, surprising amount of body to it, not diluted aspect and quite long in the finish.
100% Sumoll 12% 11€
** 90